M&S front bumper, rear bumper, and sideskirts, as it arrived via truck freight on a palette.
Marked as do not stack to ensure safe delivery.
Sideskirts open box.
3M-backed tape and install foam included in the package. A roll of what looks to be black vinyl wrap is included for the sideskirt insert strips, though we won’t be using those.
Out of the box. Sideskirts are made of ABS plastic, and are extremely lightweight. Molding details are crisp, even the backside is clean. Finished in primer gray.
Front and rear bumpers come packaged together in the main large box.
Bumpers come out of the box wrapped and secured with several sheets of plastic and bubble wrap.
Rear bumper is made of ABS plastic just like the side skirts. Compared to the old fiberglass version, this is also extremely lightweight yet durable. Grille mesh, reflectors, and tow hook cover are all included and pre-installed.
Hyper G front bumper is constructed of fiberglass, making it significantly heavier than the rear bumper. This being the Type A, the front grille mesh is actually split in two pieces, with a thinner top piece and a larger bottom mesh. The LED running lights are an optional add-on, shown here already installed on the bumper out of the box.
First out-of-box dry-fit of the bumper on the car, just hanging off the car with nothing bolted.
First impression is that all the body lines line up very well (shown above, the curve of the bumper where it meets the rear body fender is perfect, it just isn’t bolted up)
Closer look at both sides after they’ve been clipped/bolted.
The bolt holes that attach the bumper to the factory tabs aren’t drilled out, but that’s easy enough to do on your own once you line the bumper up.
The rear bumper overall is an extremely tight fit – it would be 100% perfect if it were just a quarter or half an inch wider. As it comes, the fitment is so tight the sides are slightly sunken compared to the rear fenders when they line up.
Our fix to this was to add some small washers to the bolts on the edge of the bumper where it connects to the fender to “push” it out, then use a thin layer of body filler on both the original fender and bumper to “level” them.
Metal tube cut with a nut and bolt through it to act as the “spacer” that pushes the bumper outwards.
The bumper fitment under the taillight is also extremely tight – not necessarily a problem that it sits so flush, but there’s potential for the taillight to rub the paint after everything comes together.
Mitigated by moving the mounting post that gets covered by the taillight down slightly.
As an extra step just for rigidity (this isn’t necessary, we just went above and beyond), custom brackets were created to hold the bottom of the bumper to the chassis.
These brackets will bolt to the bottom of the rear bumper’s diffuser, to ensure the air pocket at high speeds doesn’t create drag that could negatively flex the bumper backwards.
Fitted with the widebody bumper extensions that are included with the UNR widebody kit
First dry-fit now with the front bumper. Hangs perfectly.
Mounting holes are all pre-drilled out of the box and line up with existing factory holes.
Alignment with fender looks good, despite the entire front fender being a replacement widebody fender from UNR.
Only noticeable issue is a slightly larger gap below the passenger headlight
Dry fitted before any bodywork.
A common issue that seems to plague almost all aftermarket front bumpers – it’s very subtle, but the center top of the bumper where it meets the hood bows down slightly, creating a slightly uneven panel gap. This isn’t unique to the M&S – my previous Ark bumpers suffered from the same issue:
Zoom in, you’ll see a gap in the middle between the hood and front bumper created by the top of the bumper bowing down slightly.
A custom bracket was built to push the middle center of the bumper further up.
Our fix was then to literally layer some filler on the middle top and sculpt the top edge even with the hood.
Cleaned up for an even gap (gap looks large here because bumper guard trim and weather strip isn’t in yet).
Front and rear widebody bumper extensions are molded into the bumpers, and the rear fender arch line is extended upwards to create a new soft body line against the rear quarters.
Final look at how seamlessly the bumper extensions blend into the front bumper before we hit primer
Something interesting we noticed – the vent slits on the rear bumper weren’t completely even. The right side is slightly wider towards the bottom than the left. Easy enough to just trim some material out of the left side to even them out. M&S included plenty of mesh behind the openings so it wouldn’t look odd.
The front bumper actually has these tiny little fiberglass posts that link the bottom of the grille area to the integrated lip. It’s a small detail that would normally go completely unnoticed with how small they are, but we decided to clean them up anyways.
We ended up cutting the original fiberglass posts out completely and replaced them with pieces of cut metal pipe – cleaner this way. They’re attached via long bolts that thread through the pipe and bolt into the fiberglass.
As of this writing, M&S doesn’t produce a version of the rear bumper without the parking sensor holes. My car never came with them, being an R-Spec, so they were filled in and smoothed out.
Rear bumper and fenders after first primer coat
M&S includes a fiberglass front crash bar cover with the front bumper
Screws right into the crash bar, presumably to have something nicer to look at through the bumper once we get the big ‘ol mesh on.
Final coat of primer for the bumpers before paint.
I haven’t talked much about the side skirts – they fit very well out of the box, pretty much no modification is needed.
We did go and create an extra bracket in the front wheel well behind the front wheel just as an extra attachment point for the skirt, to ensure it stays sturdy.
Miscellaneous parts and main body prepped for paint
To give an idea on how far the UNR rear fenders were modified: the entire fender arch line was raised and molded higher in order to match the belt line where the front fender bulges better.
Reflectors in the rear bumper are removed before paint.
All parts ready for paint
Color is going to be an OEM Nissan color from the R34 Skyline GT-R: Midnight Purple III (#LX0)
Rear quarters and jambs all painted together
Closer look at some of the mounting points and extra brackets we created for the rear bumper
Sideskirts attaching via the included tape in the kit and bolts at the ends that line up with factory bolt holes.
Front UNR fenders do not come with vents – we glued these in with epoxy
The extra “side wing” inserts are an optional part of the Hyper G bumper, shown here being glued in after paint.
The included LED daylight running lights will actually be wired into the existing foglight wires that came on the car
All paint and bodywork completed by: AK Airbrushing & Autobody (Riverside, California)
UNR Widebody kit available from: KDMHolic
M&S Hyper G Complete bodykit available from: M&S America
Wheels: Work Wheels CR2P
- 18×10 +0 front
- 19×11 +0 rear